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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Northern ILL
    Posts
    23

    Default Radiator overhaul --- what's possible

    I'd like to have the radiator for my 60 Pont gone thru, but I would like to basically have it rebuilt..i.e. the thin u-shaped frame especially on the bottom is fairly crusty and I'd like to R&R all the sheetmetal as well as just checking out the core. Am I dreaming in terms of what can be accomplished at a radiator shop? Do I need to find another better unit some where...or does anyone make basically an exact replacement for a 60 Pont? I'd like to keep everything basically stock as I have just redone a HD fan and shroud to go along with this. Any feedback greatly appreciated!

    Ponch60

  2. #2
    TININDN Guest

    Default

    Poncho 60 -

    If you have solid upper and lower tanks, a good radiator shop can build you a like new radiator. If your tanks are shot, you may have to find another radiator in a bone yard - Arizona might be a good place to start.

    Now, finding a good radiator shop is not as easy as it was ten years ago. But, there are still some around, but you may have to go out-of-town.

    Another alternative would be to have Griffin build you one out of aluminum. I supplied them with a "blueprint" drawing of mine ('61 - '64 radiators are similar), and they built several, for me and some other club members. If you painted it black, probably only a real keen eye could tell the difference.

    Hope this helps -

  3. #3

    Default

    Poncho 60
    Dave's advice on locating good mounts is a good - you want from a dry or desert area, preferably one that didn't use salt on the roads as the cars from those areas have much less corrosion and rust on the low-mounted car components. If you hit a dead end on finding a local radiator shop on your own, check around with other local old car guys. They'll know where there is a good one.

    Also keep in mind that even the larger of the hobby-oriented businesses are relatively small and provide good personal service. I got the radiator for my Buick Riviera from U.S. Radiator (www.usradiator.com). When I called them, the owner answered the phone and took my order! They list radiators for 1961 and up Pontiacs and Buicks but not 1960. They also list for 1960 Chevrolets. My guess is that one of those cores would work with your tanks. A few measurements would get the job done.
    Alan Mayes
    Tullahoma, TN
    Southern Division Director
    1961 Ventura 2-door kustom

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Northern ILL
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Thx for the replies!

    I did a little poking around on the "net" and found a place that can "restore" Harrison radiators including replacing the bottom frame piece if needed. The ballpark price was $450 - $500. Seems steep.....then again there aren't a lot of alternatives. Any opinions on the price.....I did verify that I still have (what I believe) the original Harrison radiator after he told me what to look for.....maybe I should say the upper tank is the original...whatever.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Blackstock Ont. Canada
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Price sounds reasonable to me, I paid $350 just to have one "recored"!!! price of copper has gone "way"up. I shopped around to many rad shops before I found one that would work on vintage rads & they seemed to enjoy doing this type of work!!! It too was out of town, "aboot" [cdn] 35mi away
    Sometimes I wake up grumpy. But today I let her sleep in!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Suburban Philadelphia Area
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dualquadpete View Post
    Price sounds reasonable to me, I paid $350 just to have one "recored"!!! price of copper has gone "way"up. I shopped around to many rad shops before I found one that would work on vintage rads & they seemed to enjoy doing this type of work!!! It too was out of town, "aboot" [cdn] 35mi away
    Last December when my original Harrison radiator suddenly sprouted leaks in a few places, I removed it and took it to a local and highly reputable radiator repair shop in the Philadelphia area. It was beyond repair and a new core was ordered for $425. I contacted a few other places who wanted over $500 for the same job. So, Poncho60, the price you received is indeed in the ballpark.

    Although my heater core was not leaking, I knew it was original and decided to replace it before it, too, sprung a leak. By the way, the place that I used is owned and run by 3 brothers who have been in the business for literally 50 years and at the same crusty location. When I told them the radiator was for a 64 Bonneville, they didn't give me the "blank stare look." The woman who sits in the office is the wife of one of the owners. Not many places like that around anymore. Gotta love it!


    Vince

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Northern ILL
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Thx for the replys....much appreciated. I think I'm going to go with the guy I found online as I mentioned earlier. Next question is how do you get the trans lines from the hydro disconnected from the radiator? I looks like there's a short lenth of "rubber tubing" that's crimped to the end of the actual trans cooling line and also to the fitting that screws into the radiator. Being crimped at both ends of the "rubber tubing" do you cut the tubing or destroy the crip...or? I don't find anything in my set of manuals that shows any details on this. Thx for any feedback!

    Poncho60

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Suburban Philadelphia Area
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Poncho60,

    I simply cut and removed the the"rubber tubing" and, of course, the crimped metal fastener. I replaced it with 3/8 inch inside diameter fuel line hose, along with small hose clamps. If I remember correctly, the specs call for 11/32 inch inside diameter hose, but it wasn't available at the store, but the 3/8 inch is only 1/32 larger, and when you tighten on the hose clamps, it does the job.

    Vince

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Northern ILL
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Thx for the reply. Sounds like no big deal. I guess I was just puzzled by the fact everything was crimped.....unless done that way at the factory. I wouldn't expect anyone to have put the crimp connections on at a repair shop.....maybe I'm assuming too much.

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